P'Bux

If Budapest is Dunkin’ Donuts, Prague is Starbucks: prettier and more polished but at the end of the day serving the exact same thing: Central European attitude with a shot of communist history.


Disneyland Staromestske Namesti , the old town square, is beautiful. And please note we did not take the above analogy literally; that ain’t no S’bux cup.


(For better or for worse, Nina and I feed each other’s mutual love for abbrevs and slang. I apologize if that has resulted in an incomprehensible post.)


The “Revolution” statue constructed from keys was built only a few months ago, begging the question: are the Czechs revolting against this?


It is not every day one sees a cowboy aspiring to become an F-1 racer.

The metronome in the distance replaced the behemoth Stalin Monument, which stood for only seven years. The sculptor Otakar Švec killed himself shortly before completion of the monument; he is one of many Czechs who chose suicide over communist oppression.


The metronome symbolizes that all time is relative. Or reminds me that despite 12 years of piano lessons, I still am mistaken for a beginner.


On a brighter note, the Czech Ice Hockey team defeated Russia on Sunday to win the world championship. Just like the C’s will defeat the Magic tonight and go on to win the NBA championship.


Much as one prefers to lounge in Starbucks rather than Dunkin’ Donuts (unless it is pumpkin donut time at DD), the Prague Castle trumps the one in Budapest.


And my lame analogy is done. I obviously have had too much of the ‘feine myself this morning.

The First Rule of Budapest Is:

Unlike Tyler, I have only three rules of the 'Pest.

I intend to share these with all visitors upon arrival; unfortunately, I usually forget. Now you cannot say I didn't warn you.

1. Avoid Chinese food buffets (Kinai Bufe) at all cost. Just assume they intend to poison you and hit up the sketchy gyro stand instead.

2. Heed the little green crossing man.

3. Never hail a taxi; call the special number.

Did I forget anything? What are the rules for where you live?

A View From the Apt Which Will "Make You Drop Your Knickers"

Because why not do a photo shoot alone in the bedroom?

Yoga Pose May: Hungarian Style

When I lived in Boston, I would leave Equinox yoga classes feeling pretty proud of myself. Not only had I done something “good” for my body, the instructor invariably told me I had good energy, tried really hard that day, or liked my T.J. Maxx yoga top. The sauna and locker room were pretty nice too.

Yoga in Hungary is a bit different.

Gauranga leads hot Ashtanga and Agni classes in the basement of the only vegan restaurant in Budapest Atma Center. I love Gauranga. I fear Gauranga.

Although he leads classes in Hungarian, Gauranga corrects me in English. And by corrects me I mean he asks me in a deadpan voice why am I not working in his class? Meanwhile I barely can grip the mat because I am drenched in sweat.

(Sorry for the visual.)

Gauranga has no problem “adjusting” me into positions I didn’t know existed or, if I did, would not dare to try. I am embarrassed to admit that I actually have cried (yes, cry. And I don’t cry.) in class before. G’s response? “Stop crying.” (I thought the sweat dripping down my face would have masked the tears but apparently G is as wise as he is sadistic.)

I also never have felt as “straight” or tall or wonderful as I do when I leave class. The euphoria continues for about two days or until I completely forget what actually happened in the basement torture chamber. Then I go back for more.

Thankfully, tree pose or Vrksasana has never inspired tears, just glares from G.

The purpose of tree pose is to improve balance and strengthen legs.

1. Stand in mountain pose or Tadasana.
2. Bend left knee, bringing sole of left foot to right inner ankle, shin, or thigh (never to the knee).
3. Push left thigh out and press left foot into right ankle/shin/thigh. Keep hips square.
4. Focus on a stationary object (i.e. not me if I am doing yoga with you).
5. Raise hands from heart center to ceiling with palms touching. Open arms to side.
6. Repeat with right foot.

I probably should have taken this picture before class.


If you are ever in Budapest, let me know. We can go see G together, cry, and then talk about how awesome we feel. I can promise you it will be a special experience.

Welcome to Budapest

Mr. & Mrs. Z,

Your daughter Nina arrived safely in Budapest last night.

We celebrated her arrival in typical Hungarian fashion with a palinka tasting. An ironic event since all palinka tastes the same - terrible. Pear palinka with honey may as well be charcoal palinka with lighter fluid.

Vanity almost precluded me from posting this picture. And I think it was only palinka #2 (of 8).


Luckily food was served with each course, causing Nina and I to admit - yes, we do like mayo despite protests to the contrary. Add it to the list.


This is a girl who just arrived to Budapest via Frankfurt via Montreal. Let's give her a hand.


Actually, let's give her a bed. 1/2 of mine to be exact.

Hungarian Eats Week II: Chicken Paprikash

It is only fitting that our first recipe is Chicken Paprikash. Like many of Hungary’s signature dishes, Chicken Paprikash originated as a herdsmen’s stew, reflecting the importance of livestock and a nomadic lifestyle during the Middle Ages. Says Wikipedia.

The base of any Herdsmen’s stew, which also includes goulash, is a heap of paprika added to onions which have been fried in lard until light gold in color (I just wanted to use the word "light" to describe HU cooking). Only Chicken Paprikash is served with noodles.

This is my adaptation of the Chef Parade recipe. I have made this recipe three times, and it has been delicious each time. Making the dumplings is the most fun part. Let me know what you think!

Chicken Paprikash with Dumplings
Serves 4


Chicken Paprikash
4 pieces of chicken
2 onions
Paprika (sweet or hot)
2 tomatoes
2 red peppers
1 tsp. salt
1 cup sour cream
2 tbsp. flour

Dumplings
2 eggs
1.5 cups flour
Salt
Water

Stir fry the finely chopped onions in oil until golden. Remove from heat and stir in paprika (to taste – I used ¼ cup) and one cup water.

Add the whole chicken pieces and return pan to the stove. Add roughly chopped pepper, tomatoes and salt. Add lid, reduce heat, and simmer until chicken is tender.

In a separate dish, mix flour and sour cream. Add a spoonful of the chicken liquid to sour cream mixture (to increase temperature) and whisk until smooth. Remove pan from burner and stir in sour cream mixture. Return to stove and bring to boil. Serve over dumplings.

To make dumplings, mix eggs, flour and salt and add water to get a consistency similar to pancake batter (don’t make too watery). Use a cheese grater to strain dumpling batter into boiling, salted water (this will be messy and awkward but it works!). Cook dumplings for 2-3 minutes.

Etyek

To test my newfound knowledge of European wines, we headed to the Etyek Wine Festival on Saturday. I wore my Celtics t-shirt and fleece but more appropriate attire would have been thigh-high wellies and a giant poncho.


Or spiked cleats as I nearly wiped out walking down the cellar steps.

Because of the weather.


In fact, the entire day became a bit messy - both physically and morally.


My favorite cellar obviously was the one which paired wine with chocolate.


Which was worth standing in the middle of the road to flag down a bus. Will.get.run.over.for.chocolate.


Luckily the pictures stop here, but I believe a higher power canceled Sunday's road race due to "inclement weather." Or maybe the race organizers went to Etyek too.

Tommy Point

Yesterday I forgot to mention one of my hobbies when in the US is following the (no longer) young & hustling Boston Celtics. The highlight of my life as of age 16 was Sports Guy Bill Simons' posting my comment on his now defunct digital city site - I had suggested the networks add to the TV screen a barometer which measured Tommy Heinsohn’s blood alcohol level during games so viewers knew how much credence to give his comments.

If NBA.com claims that LeBron and Cavaliers didn't lose series; Celtics won it, I can only imagine last night Tommy was saying things like:

“The 2009-2010 Celtics Team would have ENSLAVED the [plural noun misinterpreted as a racist slur when in fact was the first thing Tommy saw upon looking up from his Jack and Coke] on the 1966-67 Philadelphia 76ers.”

“If Rondo were a woman, I would take him home with me tonight. In fact, maybe I will anyway.”

“Zydrunas Ilgauskas! Zydrunas Ilgafdhddjshfdjhfdsjfshkdhk! Zydrunas Ilganevergonnawinachampionship!"

Let’s just give the entire team a Tommy Point.

Overseen in Budapest

Further confirmation why you shouldn't eat sushi here.

Hobby Lobby

I used to have an inferiority complex about hobbies. Maybe due to permanent brainwashing from b-school applications, I was convinced hobbies had to be extreme activities about which I was PASSIONATE. Which explains this disaster.

Only recently did I realize the things I enjoy (running, yoga, scrapbooking, traveling, writing) are hobbies too, albeit hobbies more reminiscent of a suburban housewife than a SWF.

Yes, these are the things I think about at a 6:30 AM spin class based entirely on McCoy’s Another Night (which I enjoyed, perhaps making my list of hobbies also reminiscent of a teenage boy on spring break in Amsterdam).

The above musings obviously beg the question: What are the popular hobbies in Hungary?

Cleaning one’s flat. This is by far the most common answer to “what did you do this weekend?”

Being a “sportman” (or “sportwoman”). This phrase never gets old. I also love that in addition to soccer, water polo is both a popular sport and source of national pride.

Attending Metallica concerts. Metallica must tour 6-8 months of the year in Central and Eastern Europe. I would too if I had such a devout fan following. Literally the entire office is leaving at 3 PM today in preparation for tonight's concert.

Learning a 4th or 5th language. Further feeding my hobby inferiority complex.

So, what are your hobbies? As of April 25th, my sister Kara’s was not wearing underwear.

Hungarian Eats: Week I

I begged; a few of you clicked.

You asked; I answered.

To kick off the weekly Hungarian Eats post, I proudly introduce the Top Hungarian “Don’t-Knock-‘Em-Til-You-Try-‘Em” Eats.

Ham-flavored spreadable cheese. That’s right; I went from Hungry Girl-approved Laughing Cow light cheese wedges to this. Don’t judge. At least I don’t pull out this when purchasing.

Goose cracklings. Fried goose skin is the Hungarian equivalent of Pringles: Once you pop you just can't stop...until you develop severe gastrointestinal problems.


Beet ice cream. Little did I know that my quest for the best beet salad in Boston was child’s play compared to the beet options in Hungary.

Gypsy roast. I was happy to discover that this specialty is indeed a slab of roasted beef and not another way to persecute the gypsies.

Bread topped with lard and onions (different from Langos). In its continual quest to sweep the best drunk food awards, Hungary offers this salty snack at both upscale winebars and dives. Just accept that lard likely isn't much worse for you than the latest ingredient food purists are rallying against, and don't breathe on anyone for five days.

Crazy Idea

I am going to be in Cambridge for at least the next two years, have a lousy housing lottery pick, mortgage rates are low...is it totally crazy to look for an apartment to buy in Harvard Square?

Maybe. But I did move here and that was pretty random.

If anyone has advice about or names of agents for this process, can you please let me know? As a first step, I am talking with Boston Real Estate and Boston City Properties today/tomorrow (just found them online).

In honor of making big-girl decisions, let's join McSweeney's in paying homage to my favorite group of girls, all grown up.

Happy Mama's Day!

For Mama's Day Weekend, I got Mama Boch all to myself in Paris.


(Although I did half expect to find Gracie & Olivia in her suitcase chowing down on the Peanut Butter Puffins I had asked for. In fact, Peanut Butter Puffin would be a perfect nickname for Gracie.)


I wish I looked this good post-transatlantic flight.


On Friday night, we went to a wine tasting at O Chateau, the former personal wine cellar of Louie XV.

Our sommelier Anselme declined to answer when asked his thoughts on Two Buck Chuck. He however did compare over-oaked Californa wine to doing sexual things to Pinocchio.


My favorite wine was the sensual Cotes du Rhone Village, spicy with a hint of eucalyptus. I even could detect the earthy minerality indigenous to the region.


Yeah right! By wine #4, our notes mainly consisted of making fun of the other (much more knowledgeable) people at the event.


You would look this happy too.


For some reason, the Lourve was really funny that night.


Mom was eying the chandelier in Napolean’s apartments for our dining room at home.


Mama Boch and I have the same vacation style: lazy with a hint of (unpictured) gelato.


Best Mama's Day ever!

Boldog Szuletesnapot!

Hungarians celebrate both birthdays and namedays, special days designated for a person’s name based on religious or famous figures and historical events. Some names have seven namedays a year (you pick one to celebrate); some names have none (you pick a random day).

Birthdays are a more intimate affair celebrated by close friends and family; namedays are casual. Because women typically are given flowers on their nameday, flower prices can rise around the dates of popular names.

My namedays are March 18 and May 18. So no worries if you missed my birthday – you will have another chance in two weeks.

Can you imagine having to remember the namedays of all of your family and friends? If you live in Hungary, chances are you know at least 11 Janoses, a name with 13 potential namedays. I would astound you with the resulting number of permutations, but I forgot all math above a sixth-grade level after sixth grade the GMAT.

When I asked my coworker Geza how Hungarians celebrate namedays, he replied, “Drink.”

When I asked my coworker Geza how Hungarians celebrate birthdays, he replied, “Drink.”

So I did.

Roadtrip

Sus and I roadtripped to Slovenia this weekend.

Super-cursory Slovenia primer: Slovenia is the wealthiest ex-Yugoslav state, formerly comprising 8% of the population and 20% of GDP. Given its relative prosperity, the rest of Yugoslavia was not surprised when Slovenia declared independence in 1991. Although it bombed the country for ten days, Yugoslavia ultimately let Slovenia succeed because the majority of the population was Slovene (and not Serbian). Besides, the army had more important things to do - like bombing orphanages in Sarajevo.

Slovenia joined the EU in 2004 with the highest GDP per capita of any new member state. The country’s culture varies by region; the north reminds me of Austria, the east has a Mediterranean feel; the south shows Turkish influence.


Our first stop was Lake Bled, although GPS tried really hard to get us to drive to Croatia instead.


It is tradition for the groom to carry his bride up the steps of this church; the bride must remain silent during the ascent.

Sounds like the beginning of a healthy relationship.


When I first googled "Lake Bled", I learned the area was famous for its Kremna rezina.

I then told Susan a weekend in Slovenia sounded like a great idea.


We spent Sunday in the capital, Ljubljana (Looby-ahna).


Crouching apparently alleviates my fear of heights. And feeds my fondness for alliteration.


I kept imagining the mushroom soup in a bread bowl was a giant cupcake.

And no, there was no drug use over the weekend. Why do you ask?


According to Greek legend, upon triumphant return home with the Golden Fleece, Jason slayed the dragon by the banks of the Ljubljanica River.

In unrelated news, no matter what travel books claim, Slovenia tops every other country in gelaterias per capita. I tried every flavor except for "Obama."

If Slovenia were a gelato favor, it would be cream - fresh, rich, appealing but not particularly exciting.